All about Creams

About Creams:

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Creams are semi-solid emulsions which contain blends of oil and water. Their texture varies between liquids and solids. Salve (medical ointment for soothing purpose) and unguent (soothing products) compounds in earlier days led to the rise of cleansing and cold creams. With the help of additives such as emulsifying agents and newer techniques, the preparation of creams has become easy. There are different creams for face & body. In this article, we will guide you about both.

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Creams?

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Creams are semi-solid emulsions which contain blends of oil and water. Their texture varies between liquids and solids. Salve (medical ointment for soothing purpose) and unguent (soothing products) compounds in earlier days led to the rise of cleansing and cold creams. With the help of additives such as emulsifying agents and newer techniques, the preparation of creams has become easy.

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Classification:

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Creams can be classified according to their functions. They are:

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Classification

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Creams can be classified according to their functions. They are:

• Cleansing and Cold Creams
• Foundation and Vanishing Creams
• Night and Message Creams
• Hand and Body Creams
• All-purpose Creams is Cleansing and Cold Creams

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Production of Cosmetic Creams and Lotions

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Cosmetic creams and lotions are used for different purposes like cleansing and moisturizing. The ingredients are different according to the desired use, however, to some extent, the basic manufacturing process is the same.

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The Process

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Products can be either an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, consisting of emollients and lubricants separated in an oil phase, and a water phase containing emulsifying and thickening agents, perfume, color, and preservatives. Active ingredients are disbanded in either phase depending on the raw materials and the desired properties of the end product. A typical manufacturing process would be as follows:

• Flake/powder ingredients, such as cetyl alcohol and stearic acid, sometimes dry blended in advance, are dispersed into the oil phase. Heating may be required to meet some of the ingredients.
• Active ingredients are dispersed in the appropriate phase.
• The water phase, containing emulsifiers and stabilizers such as Veegum or Carbopol, is prepared separately.
• The two phases are then mixed to form an emulsion. This is aided by heating to between 110 - 185℉ (45 - 85℃) depending on the formulation and viscosity.
• Mixing is continued until the end product is homogeneous.

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The Problem

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Using conventional agitators several problems can be encountered:

• Some ingredients can form agglomerates which standard agitators cannot break down.
• One of the most difficult mixing operations is hydration of thickening and suspending. Agglomerates can easily form and some ingredients require shear to develop their desired properties.
• When adding powdered components to the vessel, partially hydrated materials can build up on the vessel surface and parts of the agitator.
• Agitators cannot easily form well-built emulsions even when the oil and water phases have been heated.
• Long process times and additional equipment are often required to achieve a homogeneous product.

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The Solution

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Intermediate stages of production can be eliminated, product quality improved, and processing times dramatically reduced by using a High Shear Mixer. The advantages of the High Shear mixer stem from the 3 stage mixing/shearing action generated by the precision machined work head.

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The Advantages

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• Consistent product quality and repeatability.
• Agglomerate-free mix.
• Stable emulsion.
• Rapid mixing time.
• Maximized yield of raw materials as thickening agents are fully hydrated and other ingredients fully dispersed.

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Formulation

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Table 1: Characteristics of Skin Creams

Skin creams are divided into two types: oil-in-water (O/W) creams which are made of small droplets of oil separated in a continuous phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are formed of small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous oily phase.

Functional	Physicochemical	Subjective
Cleansing Creams	Medium to High oil content	Oily
Cold Creams	O/W or W/O	Difficult to 'Rub in'
Massage Creams	Low Slip Point oil phase	May be stiff and rich
Night Creams	Neutral pH	Also popular as lotions
	May contain surfactant that improve penetration
Moisturizing Creams	Low oil content	Easily spreadable and 'Rub in' quality
Foundation Creams	Usually O/W	Available as creams and lotions
Vanishing Creams	Low slip-point oil phase
	Neutral to slightly acidic pH
	May contain emollients & special moisturizing ingredients
Functional	Physicochemical	Subjective
Hand & Body Protective	Low to medium oil content	Easily spreadable but do not 'Rub in' with the ease of vanishing creams
	Usually O/W
	Medium slip point oil phase	Very popular in lotion form
	Slightly alkaline or acidic pH
	May containing protective factors, especially silicon and lanolin
All Purpose Creams	Medium oil content	Very often slightly oily but should be easy to spread
	O/W or W/O

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Table 2: Typical Formulation: Cleansing Creams

The mixed-use of facial skin cleanser and moisturizer is safe and effective for the care of acne in post-adolescent women with sensitive skin.

Ingredient	Formulation 1 (%)	Formulation 2 (%)	Justification of Use
Stearic Acid	10	12.5	A key component of corneum lipids, an antioxidant and also potent anti-inflammatory lipid, non-toxic and non-irritant.
Cetostearyl Alcohol	1.5	2	It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, opacifying agent, and foam boosting surfactant, as well as an aqueous and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent.
Isopropyl Myristate	3	5	Emollient; oleaginous vehicle; skin penetrant; solvent, thickening agent, or lubricant.
Sorbitan Monolaureate	2	-	Lubricants, processing aids, specific to petroleum production. Solvents (for cleaning and degreasing), surface active agents .
Glycerin	6.5	-	Humectant/Emollient
Na-Lauryl SO4	5	-	Anionic surfactant; detergent; emulsifying agent; skin penetrant; wetting agent.
Triethanolamine	1.5	-	A surfactant or pH adjuster, alkalizing agent; emulsifying agent
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Mono Laurate	2	-	Preventing surface adsorption and as stabilizers.
Water	61.5	68.5
Lanolin	-	0.4	Emulsifying agent
Coco-Na Isothionate	-	12	Surface active agents; Cleansing Agent
Perfume, Preservative	q.s.	q.s.

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Table 3: Lightening Night Cream Formulation

Night and massage creams are designed to be left on the skin for several hours or to remain mobile on the skin even after vigorous rubbing.

Phase
A	Product	INCI	Supplier	%
	Deionized Water	Water	- - - - -	62.10
	Glycerin	Glycerin	Interchimie	4.00
	Dermosoft® GMCY	Glyceryl Caprylate	Dr Straetmans*	0.50
	Satiaxaneâ„¢ CX 911	Xanthan Gum	Cargill	0.50
	Biophilicâ„¢ H	Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics	4.00
	Product	INCI	Supplier	%
B	Sunflower Oil	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Emile Noel	5.00
	Hazelnut Oil	Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil	Emile Noel	5.00
	Cerabeil Blanche Selection	Beeswax	Baerlocher	4.00
	Vitapherole® E1000	Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	VitaeNaturals	0.20
	Lipex® 102	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	AAK	3.00
	Product	INCI	Supplier	%
C	Deionized Water	Water	- - - - -	5.00
	Whitessenceâ„¢	Artocarpus Heterophyllus Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Disodium Phosphate (and) Sodium Phosphate	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics	2.00
	Mamaku Vital Essence Nature PF	Water (and) Glycerin (and) Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics	2.00
	Exo-Tâ„¢	Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics	1.00
	Tyrostatâ„¢ 09	Water (and) Glycerin (and) Rumex Occidentalis Extract	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics	1.00
	Product	INCI	Supplier	%
D	Potassium Sorbate	Potassium Sorbate	- - - - -	0.30
	Product	INCI	Supplier	%
E	Relax 2020/2	Fragrance	Vanessence	0.40

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Table 4: Massage Cream Formulation

A beauty massage cream that promotes resilience and firmness while helping prevent sagging and other signs of aging. The great interest in eternal youth has developed a large market for skincare products claiming anti-wrinkle effects.

INGREDIENT	% of total	500 g	2 cups	Function
Part A
Distilled Water	38.10	190.50	3/4 cup + 1 TBS	Diluent
Glycerin	2.00	10.00	2 tsp	Humectant
Part B
Cetyl Alcohol	4.25	21.25	4 1/4 tsp	Thickener
Ethylhexyl Palmitate	23.00	115.00	1/2 cup	Occlusive oil for slip
Grapeseed Oil	8.50	42.50	3 TBS	Vegetable oil for moisturizing
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20	3.55	17.75	3 1/2 tsp	Emulsifier blend
Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides	10.00	50.00	1/4 cup	Occlusive oil for slip
Sweet Almond Oil	3.50	17.50	3 1/2 tsp	Vegetable oil for moisturizing
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate	6.10	30.5	2 TBS	Emulsifier blend
Part C
Germaben II	1.00	5.00	1 tsp	Preservative
Total	100 %	500g	2 cups

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Table 5: Moisturizer Formulation

This term was developed by marketers, promoting its function to moisten the skin. Moisturizer and emollient are often regarded as synonymous, even when occlusives and humectants are also part of it.

No.	Ingredient	%	Justification
1	Isopropyl Linoleate	2	Lubricant
2	Glyceryl Stearate	3	Emollient; emulsifying agent
3	Diisopropyl adipate	2	Plasticizer, moisturizer, cleaning agent
4	Myristyle myristate	1	Emollient
5	PEG 40 Stearate	1	Surfactant; cleansing agent
6	Cetyl alcohol	1.5	Emollient; emulsifying agent; stiffening agent
7	Ceteareath-20	0.5	Emulsifying agent
8	Quaternium-22	2	Antistatic
9	Hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% aq)	25	Emulsifying, bubble-forming agent, viscosity-increasing agent.
10	PG	3	Preservative; disinfectant; humectant
11	Water	59
12	Perfume, preservative	q.s.

Creams are semisolid dosage forms that contain more than 20% water or volatile elements and typically less than 50% hydrocarbons, waxes, or polyols as channels.

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Does Hair Serum Have Side Effects?

They may also contain one or more drug elements dissolved or dispersed in a suitable cream base. Traditionally, this term has been applied to semisolids that possess a relatively fluid consistency formulated as either water-in-oil (e.g., cold cream) or oil-in-water (e.g., fluocinoloneacetonide cream) emulsions. But, now the term has been restricted to products consisting of oil-in-water emulsions or aqueous microcrystalline dispersions of long-chain fatty acids or alcohols that are water washable and more cosmetically and aesthetically acceptable.

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Composition

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There are four main ingredients of the cold cream:

• Water
• Oil
• Emulsifier
• Thickening agent

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Contraindications

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• If you have any health problems, consult your doctor before using them
• If pregnant or breastfeeding consult a doctor before using them.